Bay of a thousand waterfalls

As we were motoring (yet no wind again!!) to the Bay of a thousand waterfalls we were escorted by several pods of Peale Dolphins. When they first spotted us they motored rapidly towards the boat creating a
pressure wave as they swam. They then ducked and dived and rode the bows pressure wave whilst occasionally rolling over to look at us. As we seemed to move from territory to territory different pods of dolphins would meet, greet and depart.
We arrived at the bay of a Thousand waterfalls and after counting them we decided that there are at least 987 still to find. One party headed off in the kayaks to investigate the sheltered waters of the bay and to do a spot of beaver investigating. Tayla, Ross & Frances headed off on an intrepid journey bush bashing up the hill until they found some beaver slides and tracks to follow. We came across a very freshly built beaver dam. There was a significant amount of cut and gnawed trees. Tayla tried to finish off an incomplete cut but was unsuccessful. The actual beaver dam had some strategically placed rocks on top which we believe might be a significant scientific discovery.
At any rate after much investigation we then followed Ross over many passes to the base of the glacier. He thought we might be able to cross the glacial river however he was a little mistaken. An emergency chocolate ensued and then we headed back downstream and crossed the smaller braids of the river in a human chain at least ten times without getting our feet wet.
Craig and Rebekah picked us up after they had had a zodie trip across to the glacier for a quick iceblock nibble and the rain began to fall. The kayakers had all found beaver dams as well but not a beaver was sighted.
Yet another superb meal and a small quantity of wine helped wash it down. Bay of a thousand water falls to Estero Fouque The morning dawned fair and Joy headed out for a early morning beaver hunt however the beavers were wise to her and kept their distance.
Joy, Brett, Shelene, Brian and Craig headed up to the hanging lake only to discover that it was a huge beaver dam and lodge but a very small lake. They estimate that the dam was at least three metres at the middle and 40 to 50 metres wide. Yet again the little critters evaded us.
Meantime the rest of the crew headed up the opposite side and conquered the hill overlooking the Beagle Channel. We believe we found Guanaco prints (A llama like beast). Spectacular views up and down the channel meant that yet again lots of photos were taken. Please note that Tayla was out of her berth before 11 – she is almost time zoned in.
Lunch and the mooring lines were retrieved and the anchor lifted as we headed off to our next destination. Motoring up an apparently unexciting long arm we were astounded to find yet another glacier descending directly into the sea. This glacier had tall pillars of ice and was quite narrow with tortured seraks, Heading back to our mooring we were fortunate once again to see the rare Black Chilean Dolphins. They were again herding fish into the shallow waters and working as a group to catch them.
The way in which the yacht is moored is quite an art form. Darrel positions the Spirit in position in some very tight spots. The anchor is dropped and the Ross and Craig then leap into the Zodie and pull the mooring lines to strategically located rocks or trees. There is a great deal of clambering to tie the lines. On this night there were four lines and the Spirit was well tied into position. It was a chilly night and it looked like we were in for a change in weather.

The best days kayaking ever
The day dawned clear with not a whisper of wind. The apple and cinnamon porridge was demolished quickly and five kayakers geared up and headed up the inlet. Not a ripple stirred on the water and as we approached
the glacier the sun highlighted the blue translucence of the compressed ice. The reflections were quite stunning. A couple of geese flew overhead swooping low over the kayaks. It seemed to take ages to reach the head of the inlet as so many photo opportunities were presenting themselves. The dogleg at the top of the inlet revealed dare I say it yet more snow, ice and glaciers. Back to the boat where we met the walkers returning
from their amble up the hill behind the boat. I need to add here that Tayla was up at 9am – a new record for onboard life for her.
The day continued to be sunny and windless and lunch was enjoyed on the deck with people being extra careful not to lose cups etc overboard. The teams swapped kayaks and boots and headed off in opposite directions. Brian tells me that the glacier scared him greatly when it growled with a mighty explosion and he and Ross hightailed it out of there. All in all a most enjoyable day was had by all and we are currently feeling replete after a great chickpea curry and roast lamb dinner prepared by Brett and Joy.
Frances

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