There is a famous Rio Grande on the US Mexican border and another in Tierra Del Fuego that is deservedly not so famous. We visited the later and found it a sprawling town growing quickly from the nearby oil and gas fields but somewhat lacking in character. Even the main church is just a giant tin shed. it's the equivalent of a modern gold rush town - which I guess is what it is. The only modern building of any artistic merit is the casino.
The population are exempt federal income tax and VAT, which also helps attract immigrants. Some form of inducement is certainly required as on the day we were there it was raining and just made the average daily maximum for April of 9 degrees. The locals get an 80% subsidy on gas and electricity - which helps.
The city of 55,000 odd people just sprawls out over a huge plain and finding specific services is difficult. We drove around for ages before we found a hotel - It was full so we took the next available place - grotty, overpriced, overheated and lacking any character. Finding somewhere to eat was equally trying. Our first night we had dinner on the waterfront in a Chilean restaurant. The lack of other patrons and a Chilean restaurant in Argentina should have been warning enough. Not even the view was very good as the 11 metre tides meant looking out over gale swept mud banks that continued for over a km. We decided to have desert at Tante Sara, a normally upmarket chain. The place was crowded and service diabolical.
We started our only full day in town by finding new accommodation and lucked into a very pleasant little hostel run by a Tango teacher. She was delightful and seemed to live for Tango. If we understood the conversation correctly she had run off with her Tango partner. With new digs found we set out to experience the delights of the town - they weren't many. A cliff 15 kms out of town provided an expansive view of the extreme tides - but we could see little through the fog while the wind and temperature made dallying unappealing. Back in town we searched out the artisan market - a few shacks in central park selling unneeded knickknacks.
Dinner beckoned and we were determined to do better than the first night. Scouring the streets there seemed to be hundreds of hair salons, a few bars and almost no appealing places to eat. After an hour of looking we swallowed our pride and went back to Tante Sara - and much better service.
The roads to Rio Grande are filled with interesting sights and in season (November,to Easter) the Estancias offer wonderful hospitality in quaint old buildings that date back a 100 years. There are condors, foxes, trout and salmon and guanaco aplenty on these roads along with wonderful sea and lake vistas and abandoned tourist cabins. So make the trip, but remember that it's the journey not the destination that counts.
Tuesday, April 13, 2010
Driving in Patagonia
Being passed by a large truck carrying a 40 ft container at 120 kms an hour on a double yellow line was a new experience, but generally the roads and driving habits are not too bad in Patagonia.
The hardest part is understanding the rules. In Ushuaia uphill traffic has priority over all other traffic. Down hill is next priority, however all the main street run horizontally, so there is lots of stopping and starting. Outside of the hills you give way to the right, except at roundabouts where you generally (but not always) giveway to the left. Red lights seem to be optional to obey at some intersections and religiously observed at others. So deciding when to yield and when to proceed is a moderately complex decision.
The main road to Rio Grande is sealed and a good two lane highway. I still don't know what the maximum legal speed is, but we were frequently passed at our sedate 110kms/hr. The roads off the highway are gravel and of varying quality. They would be great for rallying as we drove three 80km sections of sometimes brilliant, smooth, well gravelled road. Unfortunately every now and then there would be large potholes and frequent cattle stops that required substantial consideration if the springs and passengers were to survive. No wonder the older cars all seem to have stuffed suspension.
Driving stress is reduced by generally courteous behaviour. Occasionally someone would honk at my dithering and sometimes they would simply drive aroiund me, but mostly they just grinned at the hapless gringo.
Ross
The hardest part is understanding the rules. In Ushuaia uphill traffic has priority over all other traffic. Down hill is next priority, however all the main street run horizontally, so there is lots of stopping and starting. Outside of the hills you give way to the right, except at roundabouts where you generally (but not always) giveway to the left. Red lights seem to be optional to obey at some intersections and religiously observed at others. So deciding when to yield and when to proceed is a moderately complex decision.
The main road to Rio Grande is sealed and a good two lane highway. I still don't know what the maximum legal speed is, but we were frequently passed at our sedate 110kms/hr. The roads off the highway are gravel and of varying quality. They would be great for rallying as we drove three 80km sections of sometimes brilliant, smooth, well gravelled road. Unfortunately every now and then there would be large potholes and frequent cattle stops that required substantial consideration if the springs and passengers were to survive. No wonder the older cars all seem to have stuffed suspension.
Driving stress is reduced by generally courteous behaviour. Occasionally someone would honk at my dithering and sometimes they would simply drive aroiund me, but mostly they just grinned at the hapless gringo.
Ross
Monday, April 12, 2010
Photos
A first cut of photos is below (there should be about 66 pictures)
To see them in full size go to http://picasaweb.google.com/ross.bidmead/PatagoniaKayakShort?feat=directlink
To see them in full size go to http://picasaweb.google.com/ross.bidmead/PatagoniaKayakShort?feat=directlink
Saturday, April 10, 2010
Exploring Isla Grande
We've had a good few days exploring Isla Grande, the main island of Tierra del Fuego. Two nights camping at Harberton in fine calm weather were great. In keeping with the name "land of Fires" we kept the campfire going continuously. Despite the coastal location we had frost on the tents and a max temperature of about 12 degrees.
The museum at Harberton was fascinating and our guide spent an hour explaining the differences in various whales and dolphins, illustrated with skeletons we could touch and hold. We made a small contribution to research by recording our dolphin sightings in the Beagle channel. The Chilean dolphins being rarely seen. The visit to the rendering room where whales were rendered to bone received mixed reactions from retching to fascination. The rendering in done in half 44 gallon drums over wood fires in an odourous process.
Ther are 10-12000 Magellanic penguins nesting on a nearby island and the trip out to see them was well worth while for a wide variety of birdlife.
Yesterday we left Harberton and crossed the Andes at Garibaldi Pass. The east coast is thick with Guanocos, a big cousin of Llamas. They are protected and leap sheep fences with a single graceful bound. In fact they vastly outnumber sheep. In 1995 a severe winter decimated sheep numbers in Patagonia (Harberton lost 78%). Volcanic eruptions this century left a layer of ash that the sheep couldn't deal with, causing further big losses. The price of wool has collapsed - and so now many estancias have given up on sheep - and indeed seem to be increasingly focussing on farming tourists as a primary source of income.
We have seen several Condors, including one that swooped low overhead. Carrion eaters, they are ugly close up as their vultiure status becomes obvious, but in flight they are stunning.
The museum at Harberton was fascinating and our guide spent an hour explaining the differences in various whales and dolphins, illustrated with skeletons we could touch and hold. We made a small contribution to research by recording our dolphin sightings in the Beagle channel. The Chilean dolphins being rarely seen. The visit to the rendering room where whales were rendered to bone received mixed reactions from retching to fascination. The rendering in done in half 44 gallon drums over wood fires in an odourous process.
Ther are 10-12000 Magellanic penguins nesting on a nearby island and the trip out to see them was well worth while for a wide variety of birdlife.
Yesterday we left Harberton and crossed the Andes at Garibaldi Pass. The east coast is thick with Guanocos, a big cousin of Llamas. They are protected and leap sheep fences with a single graceful bound. In fact they vastly outnumber sheep. In 1995 a severe winter decimated sheep numbers in Patagonia (Harberton lost 78%). Volcanic eruptions this century left a layer of ash that the sheep couldn't deal with, causing further big losses. The price of wool has collapsed - and so now many estancias have given up on sheep - and indeed seem to be increasingly focussing on farming tourists as a primary source of income.
We have seen several Condors, including one that swooped low overhead. Carrion eaters, they are ugly close up as their vultiure status becomes obvious, but in flight they are stunning.
Thursday, April 8, 2010
Adios from the three amigos
After landing back in Ushuaia the three amigos (Joy, Brett and Shelene) are leaving the safety of the family group to branch out on their own. Armed with a few Spanish words, two phrasebooks, great charade skills and a desire to have fun we’re off follow our dreams and see among other things the Atlantic Coast of Isla Grande.
We’ve set up a separate blog http://paddlepatagonia.blogspot.com/ to capture the next part of our trip.
Joy, Brett & Shelene
We’ve set up a separate blog http://paddlepatagonia.blogspot.com/ to capture the next part of our trip.
Joy, Brett & Shelene
Tuesday, April 6, 2010
Trip reflections
We are now back in Ushuaia and largely caught up on sleep etc.
The trip feels like it has gone well, but as always it had several aspects that were different from expectations.
Firstly we had no wind on the 11 days of the trip. This is one of the windiest places in the world and we never got to sail. It also meant that we had brilliant paddling conditions.
The glaciers calving into the water were spectacular and we had great fun and were awed paddling amongst the icebergs flowing from them. I think we paddled in front of 5 tidal water glaciers.
The water was colder than research indicated. We were expecting water temperatures of 4-8 degrees, but in the glacial bays we experienced new pancake ice forming amongst the glacial blocks. Easy enough to paddle through, but too cold to fall out into.
Condors were almost common and we could even see a pair nesting (just). Penguins were not at all common, but steamer ducks were comic relief. Albatross and Petrels were seen, but not as often as on the antarctic convergence.
Dolphins of several types were also common and we were often entertained by their presence, once for 30 minutes. We only saw a single seal and were not graced by the presence of the resident orcas.
There were no board walks or well formed tracks, but there were quite a few trails and huge potential for further land exploration. The land is almost all swampy and damp, sometimes its swamp under beech forest and sometimes its open land, but always its soft and wet.
The wet land made camping less attractive, but the yacht, despite being cramped with 11 of us aboard, worked well; providing a warm, dry haven at the end of each day.
This is a bit more of a fact feast than a blog. Hope to find time to add pictures and better prose.
We are off tomorrow to Estancia Harberton and possibly Rio Grande tomorrow. This afternoon we are off to explore Glaciar Martial.
Ross
The trip feels like it has gone well, but as always it had several aspects that were different from expectations.
Firstly we had no wind on the 11 days of the trip. This is one of the windiest places in the world and we never got to sail. It also meant that we had brilliant paddling conditions.
The glaciers calving into the water were spectacular and we had great fun and were awed paddling amongst the icebergs flowing from them. I think we paddled in front of 5 tidal water glaciers.
The water was colder than research indicated. We were expecting water temperatures of 4-8 degrees, but in the glacial bays we experienced new pancake ice forming amongst the glacial blocks. Easy enough to paddle through, but too cold to fall out into.
Condors were almost common and we could even see a pair nesting (just). Penguins were not at all common, but steamer ducks were comic relief. Albatross and Petrels were seen, but not as often as on the antarctic convergence.
Dolphins of several types were also common and we were often entertained by their presence, once for 30 minutes. We only saw a single seal and were not graced by the presence of the resident orcas.
There were no board walks or well formed tracks, but there were quite a few trails and huge potential for further land exploration. The land is almost all swampy and damp, sometimes its swamp under beech forest and sometimes its open land, but always its soft and wet.
The wet land made camping less attractive, but the yacht, despite being cramped with 11 of us aboard, worked well; providing a warm, dry haven at the end of each day.
This is a bit more of a fact feast than a blog. Hope to find time to add pictures and better prose.
We are off tomorrow to Estancia Harberton and possibly Rio Grande tomorrow. This afternoon we are off to explore Glaciar Martial.
Ross
Saturday, April 3, 2010
New Bloggy thingy migiggy.
I woke up at 8.58am completely freezing. Brrrr. I was pressured into
going for a walk up what I thought was quite a moderate length but no.
Instead I tramped/walked/plodded/stumbled up a hill that was maybe
double the length than what I though. Me and the mummy got distracted by
the possibility of beavers and steered onto our own course trekking down
to a small stream which turned into a large river. Snacking on mini
Easter eggs the whole way. We used our gumboots to the full extinct by
walking down the river and only once did I get my foot wet. Yes I only
managed one foot the left one to be exact. And that was when I FAILED
getting into the Zodiac and lost my footing simultaneously. I didn't get
my camera wet YAY!!! After that I went for a yaky kayaky a VERY long
yaky kayaky. And came back to a cold beer. VERY TRUE. But don't worry
Brian stole it. :P.
I appraise the wabusto! We love you, you keep us warm and cozy. YAY. And
we also love and miss Melbee! Yay Rabbits.
I am the jetlagged Llama whisperer.
Tayla.
going for a walk up what I thought was quite a moderate length but no.
Instead I tramped/walked/plodded/stumbled up a hill that was maybe
double the length than what I though. Me and the mummy got distracted by
the possibility of beavers and steered onto our own course trekking down
to a small stream which turned into a large river. Snacking on mini
Easter eggs the whole way. We used our gumboots to the full extinct by
walking down the river and only once did I get my foot wet. Yes I only
managed one foot the left one to be exact. And that was when I FAILED
getting into the Zodiac and lost my footing simultaneously. I didn't get
my camera wet YAY!!! After that I went for a yaky kayaky a VERY long
yaky kayaky. And came back to a cold beer. VERY TRUE. But don't worry
Brian stole it. :P.
I appraise the wabusto! We love you, you keep us warm and cozy. YAY. And
we also love and miss Melbee! Yay Rabbits.
I am the jetlagged Llama whisperer.
Tayla.
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Bay of a thousand waterfalls
As we were motoring (yet no wind again!!) to the Bay of a thousand waterfalls we were escorted by several pods of Peale Dolphins. When they first spotted us they motored rapidly towards the boat creating a
pressure wave as they swam. They then ducked and dived and rode the bows pressure wave whilst occasionally rolling over to look at us. As we seemed to move from territory to territory different pods of dolphins would meet, greet and depart.
We arrived at the bay of a Thousand waterfalls and after counting them we decided that there are at least 987 still to find. One party headed off in the kayaks to investigate the sheltered waters of the bay and to do a spot of beaver investigating. Tayla, Ross & Frances headed off on an intrepid journey bush bashing up the hill until they found some beaver slides and tracks to follow. We came across a very freshly built beaver dam. There was a significant amount of cut and gnawed trees. Tayla tried to finish off an incomplete cut but was unsuccessful. The actual beaver dam had some strategically placed rocks on top which we believe might be a significant scientific discovery.
At any rate after much investigation we then followed Ross over many passes to the base of the glacier. He thought we might be able to cross the glacial river however he was a little mistaken. An emergency chocolate ensued and then we headed back downstream and crossed the smaller braids of the river in a human chain at least ten times without getting our feet wet.
Craig and Rebekah picked us up after they had had a zodie trip across to the glacier for a quick iceblock nibble and the rain began to fall. The kayakers had all found beaver dams as well but not a beaver was sighted.
Yet another superb meal and a small quantity of wine helped wash it down. Bay of a thousand water falls to Estero Fouque The morning dawned fair and Joy headed out for a early morning beaver hunt however the beavers were wise to her and kept their distance.
Joy, Brett, Shelene, Brian and Craig headed up to the hanging lake only to discover that it was a huge beaver dam and lodge but a very small lake. They estimate that the dam was at least three metres at the middle and 40 to 50 metres wide. Yet again the little critters evaded us.
Meantime the rest of the crew headed up the opposite side and conquered the hill overlooking the Beagle Channel. We believe we found Guanaco prints (A llama like beast). Spectacular views up and down the channel meant that yet again lots of photos were taken. Please note that Tayla was out of her berth before 11 – she is almost time zoned in.
Lunch and the mooring lines were retrieved and the anchor lifted as we headed off to our next destination. Motoring up an apparently unexciting long arm we were astounded to find yet another glacier descending directly into the sea. This glacier had tall pillars of ice and was quite narrow with tortured seraks, Heading back to our mooring we were fortunate once again to see the rare Black Chilean Dolphins. They were again herding fish into the shallow waters and working as a group to catch them.
The way in which the yacht is moored is quite an art form. Darrel positions the Spirit in position in some very tight spots. The anchor is dropped and the Ross and Craig then leap into the Zodie and pull the mooring lines to strategically located rocks or trees. There is a great deal of clambering to tie the lines. On this night there were four lines and the Spirit was well tied into position. It was a chilly night and it looked like we were in for a change in weather.
The best days kayaking ever
The day dawned clear with not a whisper of wind. The apple and cinnamon porridge was demolished quickly and five kayakers geared up and headed up the inlet. Not a ripple stirred on the water and as we approached
the glacier the sun highlighted the blue translucence of the compressed ice. The reflections were quite stunning. A couple of geese flew overhead swooping low over the kayaks. It seemed to take ages to reach the head of the inlet as so many photo opportunities were presenting themselves. The dogleg at the top of the inlet revealed dare I say it yet more snow, ice and glaciers. Back to the boat where we met the walkers returning
from their amble up the hill behind the boat. I need to add here that Tayla was up at 9am – a new record for onboard life for her.
The day continued to be sunny and windless and lunch was enjoyed on the deck with people being extra careful not to lose cups etc overboard. The teams swapped kayaks and boots and headed off in opposite directions. Brian tells me that the glacier scared him greatly when it growled with a mighty explosion and he and Ross hightailed it out of there. All in all a most enjoyable day was had by all and we are currently feeling replete after a great chickpea curry and roast lamb dinner prepared by Brett and Joy.
Frances
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pressure wave as they swam. They then ducked and dived and rode the bows pressure wave whilst occasionally rolling over to look at us. As we seemed to move from territory to territory different pods of dolphins would meet, greet and depart.
We arrived at the bay of a Thousand waterfalls and after counting them we decided that there are at least 987 still to find. One party headed off in the kayaks to investigate the sheltered waters of the bay and to do a spot of beaver investigating. Tayla, Ross & Frances headed off on an intrepid journey bush bashing up the hill until they found some beaver slides and tracks to follow. We came across a very freshly built beaver dam. There was a significant amount of cut and gnawed trees. Tayla tried to finish off an incomplete cut but was unsuccessful. The actual beaver dam had some strategically placed rocks on top which we believe might be a significant scientific discovery.
At any rate after much investigation we then followed Ross over many passes to the base of the glacier. He thought we might be able to cross the glacial river however he was a little mistaken. An emergency chocolate ensued and then we headed back downstream and crossed the smaller braids of the river in a human chain at least ten times without getting our feet wet.
Craig and Rebekah picked us up after they had had a zodie trip across to the glacier for a quick iceblock nibble and the rain began to fall. The kayakers had all found beaver dams as well but not a beaver was sighted.
Yet another superb meal and a small quantity of wine helped wash it down. Bay of a thousand water falls to Estero Fouque The morning dawned fair and Joy headed out for a early morning beaver hunt however the beavers were wise to her and kept their distance.
Joy, Brett, Shelene, Brian and Craig headed up to the hanging lake only to discover that it was a huge beaver dam and lodge but a very small lake. They estimate that the dam was at least three metres at the middle and 40 to 50 metres wide. Yet again the little critters evaded us.
Meantime the rest of the crew headed up the opposite side and conquered the hill overlooking the Beagle Channel. We believe we found Guanaco prints (A llama like beast). Spectacular views up and down the channel meant that yet again lots of photos were taken. Please note that Tayla was out of her berth before 11 – she is almost time zoned in.
Lunch and the mooring lines were retrieved and the anchor lifted as we headed off to our next destination. Motoring up an apparently unexciting long arm we were astounded to find yet another glacier descending directly into the sea. This glacier had tall pillars of ice and was quite narrow with tortured seraks, Heading back to our mooring we were fortunate once again to see the rare Black Chilean Dolphins. They were again herding fish into the shallow waters and working as a group to catch them.
The way in which the yacht is moored is quite an art form. Darrel positions the Spirit in position in some very tight spots. The anchor is dropped and the Ross and Craig then leap into the Zodie and pull the mooring lines to strategically located rocks or trees. There is a great deal of clambering to tie the lines. On this night there were four lines and the Spirit was well tied into position. It was a chilly night and it looked like we were in for a change in weather.
The best days kayaking ever
The day dawned clear with not a whisper of wind. The apple and cinnamon porridge was demolished quickly and five kayakers geared up and headed up the inlet. Not a ripple stirred on the water and as we approached
the glacier the sun highlighted the blue translucence of the compressed ice. The reflections were quite stunning. A couple of geese flew overhead swooping low over the kayaks. It seemed to take ages to reach the head of the inlet as so many photo opportunities were presenting themselves. The dogleg at the top of the inlet revealed dare I say it yet more snow, ice and glaciers. Back to the boat where we met the walkers returning
from their amble up the hill behind the boat. I need to add here that Tayla was up at 9am – a new record for onboard life for her.
The day continued to be sunny and windless and lunch was enjoyed on the deck with people being extra careful not to lose cups etc overboard. The teams swapped kayaks and boots and headed off in opposite directions. Brian tells me that the glacier scared him greatly when it growled with a mighty explosion and he and Ross hightailed it out of there. All in all a most enjoyable day was had by all and we are currently feeling replete after a great chickpea curry and roast lamb dinner prepared by Brett and Joy.
Frances
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Wednesday, March 31, 2010
Seno Pia - FiordMagnicient
Yesterday was another fine day and we paddled up Seno Pia to investigate the glaciers at the head of the eastern arm. Pancake ice was forming in a thin layer between the bergy bits calved off from the glaciers: a
good incentive to stay in the kayaks. In places the ice chunks were closely packed by the wind and tide. We picked and paddled our way through these with the ice grinding against the sides and sometimes bottom of the kayaks. The head of the fiord was magnificent with the main glacier carving its way down from the peaks in a series of giant steps before calving into the sea in front of us. Every few minutes there would be a boom as a part of one of the glaciers let go an avalanche of ice. Wary of the dangers of tidal waves from calvings we
kept a respectable distance from the face and a sharp lookout. A second group made the return trip to the head of the sound while others collected firewood for a bonfire on the beach. Steamer ducks would paddle steam away from us at great speed. Comical to look at, they created a great spray, but never got off the water. The weather stayed overcast, but calm with only a few drops of rain so we were able to enjoy the fire while Craig and Shelene BBQed great steaks and chorizo sausages. All in all an excellent day.
Today dawned fine and calm and we have had a very pleasant motor around the western end of Isle Gordon. Several pods of dusky dolphins joined us and played off the bow for over half an hour. We are in a short
patch of water that is open to Pacific swells - the first rocking we have done in 7 days aboard. Still, it's only a short spell to the bay of a thousand waterfalls; where we are promised god walking and kayaking and another glacier that empties into the tide.
So far we've had a remarkably good trip. Remarkably good weather and despite the cramped conditions we are all getting along remarkably well.
Ross
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good incentive to stay in the kayaks. In places the ice chunks were closely packed by the wind and tide. We picked and paddled our way through these with the ice grinding against the sides and sometimes bottom of the kayaks. The head of the fiord was magnificent with the main glacier carving its way down from the peaks in a series of giant steps before calving into the sea in front of us. Every few minutes there would be a boom as a part of one of the glaciers let go an avalanche of ice. Wary of the dangers of tidal waves from calvings we
kept a respectable distance from the face and a sharp lookout. A second group made the return trip to the head of the sound while others collected firewood for a bonfire on the beach. Steamer ducks would paddle steam away from us at great speed. Comical to look at, they created a great spray, but never got off the water. The weather stayed overcast, but calm with only a few drops of rain so we were able to enjoy the fire while Craig and Shelene BBQed great steaks and chorizo sausages. All in all an excellent day.
Today dawned fine and calm and we have had a very pleasant motor around the western end of Isle Gordon. Several pods of dusky dolphins joined us and played off the bow for over half an hour. We are in a short
patch of water that is open to Pacific swells - the first rocking we have done in 7 days aboard. Still, it's only a short spell to the bay of a thousand waterfalls; where we are promised god walking and kayaking and another glacier that empties into the tide.
So far we've had a remarkably good trip. Remarkably good weather and despite the cramped conditions we are all getting along remarkably well.
Ross
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Tuesday, March 30, 2010
Seno Pia
Fishing Day
The day dawned less favourably than anticipated and captain Darrel decided that we would stay at the same anchorage again. Hench we headed off on a land expedition to the near shore. So whilst Tayla slumbered we
zodied across to the rocks and headed up the hill. A waterfall drained the large lake that was probaly only 15 metres above sea level. A quick jaunt up the hill saw us soon with a great view overlooking the beagle
channel. The weather steadily improved to give us magnificent views of the lightly snow dusted peaks and glaciers surrounding us. Back on the boat the captain encouaged us to have a shower in the capacious head. Multiple trips across the the bay to the waterfall saw the boat water tanks refilled. Subsequently the yacht and people smell almost pleasant.
Ross and Shelene togged up in all the gears(this takes some time) and headed off for a short fish in the kayaks. This was unsuccessful however two inquisitive dolphins were spotted. The fishing continued
back on board and two very large cod(the biggest that the skipper has ever seen caught on the Spirit of Sydney)were caught directly from the boat.
A superb dinner of green chicken curry and a red pumpkin vege curry were quickly whipped up by the galley hands. This was washed down with copious quantities of Malbec. Chocolate mousse and pear completed the
evening and a relatively early evening was had by all.
Glacial Kayaking
No chain clanking in the night and a sound nights sleep saw us up and ready to eat the apple and cinnamon porridge followed quickly by up anchor and away to Seno Pia. It was a smooth chug up the Beagle and a
delicate entry across the bar into the entrance opened up panoramic vista of cascading glaciers down to sea level. The sun was shining and the wind very gentle so the Spirit of Sydney slowly wove its way up through the glacial bergs up the West Arm. The cameras went crazy and the clunking of the bergs against the hull were a gentle reminder of our trip to Antarctica. We readied ourselves for a kayak back down the West Arm. Zillions of photos were taken and the air was filled with the calving and crashing sounds of the glacier descending into the sea.
With all the kayaks launched we played amongst the bergy bits. WOW. With the glacier in the background and the brightly coloured kayakers it was indeed a beautiful and memorable sight - this is why we came here!!
The Spirit headed off and the kayakers set off in two parties to head back down the West Arm. The wind was non existent and it was a gentle paddle amongst the strangely shaped bergs. We lunched on the shore and continued to the branch where the wind had picked up and the sea was a lot choppier. Safely across the channel and the lee of the far shore afforded another gentle paddle up towards yet another glacier cascading
directly into the sea. A large tourist cruise liner was enjoying the glacial views. Duh - I thought we were in the wilderness.
At any rate the forward party headed back to the Spirit for a well earned rest. Joy, Brett and Shelene decided that this was an inadequate amount of exercise and headed across to the glacier for a closer view and a
challenging paddle back to the boat in a head wind.
Becs dived in for a quick swim and surfaced with a gasp and rapidly ejected herself from the tropical waters. Tayla had managed to capture the moment on digital thank goodness as Becs wasn't keen for a repeat.
Frances caught the third substantial fish of the trip and Darrel says that it was the third biggest ever caught aboard this vessel. The barbeque on the back rail is working overtime to cook the superb Argentine lamb (the best in the world we are told). James and Brian believe that three Michelan stars may be in the offing. The red wine has been counted and we believe that we are most probably on target for the correct consumption. The Captain however is rationing the beer as Craig so poorly distributed it on the last tripo. Tayla made a scrummy chocolate brownie for the very hungry kayakers. It was voted the very best chocolate brownie so far.
Frances
Bloggy thingy migiggy
On the Spirit of Sydney WE LOVE DORITOS. D-O-R-I-T-O-S!!!!! We also love to Eat espically Craig. He likes to eat ALOT. We enjoy the odd brownie, We love the odd brownie. We like to kayak! and catch lots of fish (congrats to Ross and Frances) Most of us like to sleep, some people sleep alot, even through an anchor chain habubble (mehahaha go ME!) We love all the site seeing, I mean sailing seeing. Hahahahaha and we all love llamas or yamas in spanish but mostly llamas on this vessel we are llamarific llamatastic talking peoples. Go Llama Yamas! Hi people! Try some Doritos, make some brownie and dedicate your fish
tank to the llama yamas!
The Llamas are Happy today.
Tayla.
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The day dawned less favourably than anticipated and captain Darrel decided that we would stay at the same anchorage again. Hench we headed off on a land expedition to the near shore. So whilst Tayla slumbered we
zodied across to the rocks and headed up the hill. A waterfall drained the large lake that was probaly only 15 metres above sea level. A quick jaunt up the hill saw us soon with a great view overlooking the beagle
channel. The weather steadily improved to give us magnificent views of the lightly snow dusted peaks and glaciers surrounding us. Back on the boat the captain encouaged us to have a shower in the capacious head. Multiple trips across the the bay to the waterfall saw the boat water tanks refilled. Subsequently the yacht and people smell almost pleasant.
Ross and Shelene togged up in all the gears(this takes some time) and headed off for a short fish in the kayaks. This was unsuccessful however two inquisitive dolphins were spotted. The fishing continued
back on board and two very large cod(the biggest that the skipper has ever seen caught on the Spirit of Sydney)were caught directly from the boat.
A superb dinner of green chicken curry and a red pumpkin vege curry were quickly whipped up by the galley hands. This was washed down with copious quantities of Malbec. Chocolate mousse and pear completed the
evening and a relatively early evening was had by all.
Glacial Kayaking
No chain clanking in the night and a sound nights sleep saw us up and ready to eat the apple and cinnamon porridge followed quickly by up anchor and away to Seno Pia. It was a smooth chug up the Beagle and a
delicate entry across the bar into the entrance opened up panoramic vista of cascading glaciers down to sea level. The sun was shining and the wind very gentle so the Spirit of Sydney slowly wove its way up through the glacial bergs up the West Arm. The cameras went crazy and the clunking of the bergs against the hull were a gentle reminder of our trip to Antarctica. We readied ourselves for a kayak back down the West Arm. Zillions of photos were taken and the air was filled with the calving and crashing sounds of the glacier descending into the sea.
With all the kayaks launched we played amongst the bergy bits. WOW. With the glacier in the background and the brightly coloured kayakers it was indeed a beautiful and memorable sight - this is why we came here!!
The Spirit headed off and the kayakers set off in two parties to head back down the West Arm. The wind was non existent and it was a gentle paddle amongst the strangely shaped bergs. We lunched on the shore and continued to the branch where the wind had picked up and the sea was a lot choppier. Safely across the channel and the lee of the far shore afforded another gentle paddle up towards yet another glacier cascading
directly into the sea. A large tourist cruise liner was enjoying the glacial views. Duh - I thought we were in the wilderness.
At any rate the forward party headed back to the Spirit for a well earned rest. Joy, Brett and Shelene decided that this was an inadequate amount of exercise and headed across to the glacier for a closer view and a
challenging paddle back to the boat in a head wind.
Becs dived in for a quick swim and surfaced with a gasp and rapidly ejected herself from the tropical waters. Tayla had managed to capture the moment on digital thank goodness as Becs wasn't keen for a repeat.
Frances caught the third substantial fish of the trip and Darrel says that it was the third biggest ever caught aboard this vessel. The barbeque on the back rail is working overtime to cook the superb Argentine lamb (the best in the world we are told). James and Brian believe that three Michelan stars may be in the offing. The red wine has been counted and we believe that we are most probably on target for the correct consumption. The Captain however is rationing the beer as Craig so poorly distributed it on the last tripo. Tayla made a scrummy chocolate brownie for the very hungry kayakers. It was voted the very best chocolate brownie so far.
Frances
Bloggy thingy migiggy
I slept and I didn't even wake up when they anchor did its thing at 1am! WOW. mehahaha. When I did wake up everyone had ran off to a glacier and all but left me behind :( jokes I just slept through them wanting me to
come with them. I ate a scrummy pie and read a book. Had my first shower in too long and I'm yet to see the two fish Ross managed to fish up. hahaha get it? bad fish joke......... oh well dinners coming and itll be
the first rice dish weve had this whole trip. When Ross asks what I've learned today my stomach will clench in disgust. *giggle boat joke.
I am the Rabbit whisperer.
Tayla.
come with them. I ate a scrummy pie and read a book. Had my first shower in too long and I'm yet to see the two fish Ross managed to fish up. hahaha get it? bad fish joke......... oh well dinners coming and itll be
the first rice dish weve had this whole trip. When Ross asks what I've learned today my stomach will clench in disgust. *giggle boat joke.
I am the Rabbit whisperer.
Tayla.
Bloggy thingy migiggy
On the Spirit of Sydney WE LOVE DORITOS. D-O-R-I-T-O-S!!!!! We also love to Eat espically Craig. He likes to eat ALOT. We enjoy the odd brownie, We love the odd brownie. We like to kayak! and catch lots of fish (congrats to Ross and Frances) Most of us like to sleep, some people sleep alot, even through an anchor chain habubble (mehahaha go ME!) We love all the site seeing, I mean sailing seeing. Hahahahaha and we all love llamas or yamas in spanish but mostly llamas on this vessel we are llamarific llamatastic talking peoples. Go Llama Yamas! Hi people! Try some Doritos, make some brownie and dedicate your fish
tank to the llama yamas!
The Llamas are Happy today.
Tayla.
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Sunday, March 28, 2010
Flight of the Condors
It dawned a clear and sunny day and we were quickly up and ready to roll to make the most of this glorious morning we motored up the canal beagle and we moored in Caleta Olla. Our expedition today was to conquer our first glacier walk. We trudged through some wonderful sphagnum moss of all colours, bonsai beech trees, and did a bit of bush bashing, mud skiing, followed with continuous roars of laughter. We progressively removed our clothing layer by layer until we were down to our t-shirts..!! (and this is Patagonia)
The glacier was a magnificent sight flowing in to a terminal glacier lake, with astonishing burgy bits of all sizes. It was suggested that someone pose like the pania of the reef. Priceless photos were taken and tongues were put to the taste test. (no tongues were harmed in this experiment). While having a short refreshment break to fuel our selves for the journey home, Frances discovered she had filled her water bottle from the salt water tap on Spirit !! duhh !!
We were wow'd by two magnificent condors (Very large Birds) as they swooped over head and glided their way back to their nest. A truly South American treat.
Shelene
Chilean Black Dolpins
The highlight of the day was when a pod of about 10 Chilean Black dolpins welcomed us to Caleta Morning Bay. Initially they were busy feeding but they were soon checking us out, swimming under the yatch and escorting the zodie as the mooring lines were being put out . We feel quit priveledged as they are apparently quite rare and seldom seen. Their dorsal fins are quite small and round and their swimming motion is
similar to a sealion.
During the night there were some significant gusts of wind but the morning dawned calm but misty. El Capitain Dario Diaz suggested that we checkout the waterfall and so the famous five set out on the intrepid mud wallow. Various members lost items into the mud whilst others just got muddy. Hand over hand we clambered up the precipitous route (ie mud slide) and were rewarded with views of a glacier at the head of the valley.
We cast off our mooring lines and headed out into the mighty Brazo Noroeste (Northern Canal Beagle). As we motored along stupendous galciers lunged down to the sea with small bergs clustered at the base.
The Chilean Black dolphins saw a flurry of kayaking activity but alas by the time we were decked out in our dry suits and on the water the dolphins had departed but a pleasant paddle was enjoyed around the sheltered Caleta Morning.
Hot chocolate, Pisco sours, Piscolas and the warm cabin are ensuring a pleasant evening around the saloon bar whilst Tayla and Becs are busy creating a veritable lasange masterpiece for dinner. The culinary skills
are being tested and the challenge is to produce a dinner better than the previous nights. Home baked bread and chocolate brownie are delights yet to be sampled tonight.
Frances
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The glacier was a magnificent sight flowing in to a terminal glacier lake, with astonishing burgy bits of all sizes. It was suggested that someone pose like the pania of the reef. Priceless photos were taken and tongues were put to the taste test. (no tongues were harmed in this experiment). While having a short refreshment break to fuel our selves for the journey home, Frances discovered she had filled her water bottle from the salt water tap on Spirit !! duhh !!
We were wow'd by two magnificent condors (Very large Birds) as they swooped over head and glided their way back to their nest. A truly South American treat.
Shelene
Chilean Black Dolpins
The highlight of the day was when a pod of about 10 Chilean Black dolpins welcomed us to Caleta Morning Bay. Initially they were busy feeding but they were soon checking us out, swimming under the yatch and escorting the zodie as the mooring lines were being put out . We feel quit priveledged as they are apparently quite rare and seldom seen. Their dorsal fins are quite small and round and their swimming motion is
similar to a sealion.
During the night there were some significant gusts of wind but the morning dawned calm but misty. El Capitain Dario Diaz suggested that we checkout the waterfall and so the famous five set out on the intrepid mud wallow. Various members lost items into the mud whilst others just got muddy. Hand over hand we clambered up the precipitous route (ie mud slide) and were rewarded with views of a glacier at the head of the valley.
We cast off our mooring lines and headed out into the mighty Brazo Noroeste (Northern Canal Beagle). As we motored along stupendous galciers lunged down to the sea with small bergs clustered at the base.
The Chilean Black dolphins saw a flurry of kayaking activity but alas by the time we were decked out in our dry suits and on the water the dolphins had departed but a pleasant paddle was enjoyed around the sheltered Caleta Morning.
Hot chocolate, Pisco sours, Piscolas and the warm cabin are ensuring a pleasant evening around the saloon bar whilst Tayla and Becs are busy creating a veritable lasange masterpiece for dinner. The culinary skills
are being tested and the challenge is to produce a dinner better than the previous nights. Home baked bread and chocolate brownie are delights yet to be sampled tonight.
Frances
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Saturday, March 27, 2010
Bloggything
Bloggy thingy migiggy!!!
This morning I woke up at the crack of 2pm, Yay! Straight away I pranced
in my just awoken manner onto a zodiac and once hitting land started
trugding up a big olde hill. Don't you just love doing exercise in the
first hour of waking? Lovely. As people got closer to the AMAZING
glacier I felt sick so I just sat down and me and my mummy ditched the
herd and started attempting to take nice photos of ourselves which was
way harder then it should of been. On the way back I stood in a yummy
mud/water hole sinking my beautiful Dorothy Red boots into the mud. At
the knee high depth it took a while to re ground my now same coloured
boot with a deliouse interior of muck. After a clean up my mummy decided
to go loopy on me and re-submerge as many deserted seaweeds as possible.
After she completed this task she moved on to cracking shells and making
sand. Good on her. After getting into my rainbow suit and seeing a few
seals I reakon tonight will have to be another early night which
basically means bed at 11oclock give or take a minute.
Bahahaha sometimes I hate being the only sobber sailer, btw I like
llamas!!
Tayla.
This morning I woke up at the crack of 2pm, Yay! Straight away I pranced
in my just awoken manner onto a zodiac and once hitting land started
trugding up a big olde hill. Don't you just love doing exercise in the
first hour of waking? Lovely. As people got closer to the AMAZING
glacier I felt sick so I just sat down and me and my mummy ditched the
herd and started attempting to take nice photos of ourselves which was
way harder then it should of been. On the way back I stood in a yummy
mud/water hole sinking my beautiful Dorothy Red boots into the mud. At
the knee high depth it took a while to re ground my now same coloured
boot with a deliouse interior of muck. After a clean up my mummy decided
to go loopy on me and re-submerge as many deserted seaweeds as possible.
After she completed this task she moved on to cracking shells and making
sand. Good on her. After getting into my rainbow suit and seeing a few
seals I reakon tonight will have to be another early night which
basically means bed at 11oclock give or take a minute.
Bahahaha sometimes I hate being the only sobber sailer, btw I like
llamas!!
Tayla.
For Yesterday: Shoppings cheap in Ushia, no tax all duty free. We had a
great time at this restarunt, it was a lovely meal and everyone enjoyed
it, it only costs 70 pacos. Trying to explain where the yacht was to the
taxi drivers of abit of a mission with them thinking that we where just
babbling tourist wanting to go to the airport. We've sailed to Naverino
to get our visas. I had Coffee. The we sailed east up the beagle (woof
woof from tayla) channel.
Brian
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Thursday, March 25, 2010
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Wednesday, March 24, 2010
Tango and travel
Ushuaia, Patagonia
Last night's Tango show was spectacular and Spirit is all set and ready for departure.
Air NZ managed to loose a bag on the flight to Auckland. It was found in time (on the next flight) but meant that we were at the back of a long slow queue for Aerolineas. So lot's of time standing and not even time for a beer before being bundled aboard for an 11 hour flight that is always a challenge to sleep on.
A short walking tour of the Recoletta area was enjoyed by all. Some were focussed on shoe and leather shops, others more attracted to antique tools, bars and pastry shops.
This trips Tango was at the Madero Tango. Stunning views across the marina and a superb floor show, but desultory service, tired seafood and inedibly tough steak. The Senior Tango is apparently the place to go.
Back to the Impala Hotel about 12:30am. While it felt like home,we were up at 6am for the flight to El fin del Munde (The end of the world) as this place is known.
It's 7 degrees C and raining - a contrast to the heat of BA. The yacht is looking well prepared for our trip (possibly because Darrel was expecting us yesterday). The current plan is to clear Customs and Imigration tonight, have a big Assado dinner and then head off at first light.
Hopefully Joy will post some photos later tonight.
Ross
Last night's Tango show was spectacular and Spirit is all set and ready for departure.
Air NZ managed to loose a bag on the flight to Auckland. It was found in time (on the next flight) but meant that we were at the back of a long slow queue for Aerolineas. So lot's of time standing and not even time for a beer before being bundled aboard for an 11 hour flight that is always a challenge to sleep on.
A short walking tour of the Recoletta area was enjoyed by all. Some were focussed on shoe and leather shops, others more attracted to antique tools, bars and pastry shops.
This trips Tango was at the Madero Tango. Stunning views across the marina and a superb floor show, but desultory service, tired seafood and inedibly tough steak. The Senior Tango is apparently the place to go.
Back to the Impala Hotel about 12:30am. While it felt like home,we were up at 6am for the flight to El fin del Munde (The end of the world) as this place is known.
It's 7 degrees C and raining - a contrast to the heat of BA. The yacht is looking well prepared for our trip (possibly because Darrel was expecting us yesterday). The current plan is to clear Customs and Imigration tonight, have a big Assado dinner and then head off at first light.
Hopefully Joy will post some photos later tonight.
Ross
Sunday, March 21, 2010
Where are we going?
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El Fin del Mundo, the End of the World. Ushuaia is the southern-most city in the world, situated on Isla Grande - an island below the South American mainland. Yes it will be cool!
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