Yesterday was another fine day and we paddled up Seno Pia to investigate the glaciers at the head of the eastern arm. Pancake ice was forming in a thin layer between the bergy bits calved off from the glaciers: a
good incentive to stay in the kayaks. In places the ice chunks were closely packed by the wind and tide. We picked and paddled our way through these with the ice grinding against the sides and sometimes bottom of the kayaks. The head of the fiord was magnificent with the main glacier carving its way down from the peaks in a series of giant steps before calving into the sea in front of us. Every few minutes there would be a boom as a part of one of the glaciers let go an avalanche of ice. Wary of the dangers of tidal waves from calvings we
kept a respectable distance from the face and a sharp lookout. A second group made the return trip to the head of the sound while others collected firewood for a bonfire on the beach. Steamer ducks would paddle steam away from us at great speed. Comical to look at, they created a great spray, but never got off the water. The weather stayed overcast, but calm with only a few drops of rain so we were able to enjoy the fire while Craig and Shelene BBQed great steaks and chorizo sausages. All in all an excellent day.
Today dawned fine and calm and we have had a very pleasant motor around the western end of Isle Gordon. Several pods of dusky dolphins joined us and played off the bow for over half an hour. We are in a short
patch of water that is open to Pacific swells - the first rocking we have done in 7 days aboard. Still, it's only a short spell to the bay of a thousand waterfalls; where we are promised god walking and kayaking and another glacier that empties into the tide.
So far we've had a remarkably good trip. Remarkably good weather and despite the cramped conditions we are all getting along remarkably well.
Ross
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Wednesday, March 31, 2010
Tuesday, March 30, 2010
Seno Pia
Fishing Day
The day dawned less favourably than anticipated and captain Darrel decided that we would stay at the same anchorage again. Hench we headed off on a land expedition to the near shore. So whilst Tayla slumbered we
zodied across to the rocks and headed up the hill. A waterfall drained the large lake that was probaly only 15 metres above sea level. A quick jaunt up the hill saw us soon with a great view overlooking the beagle
channel. The weather steadily improved to give us magnificent views of the lightly snow dusted peaks and glaciers surrounding us. Back on the boat the captain encouaged us to have a shower in the capacious head. Multiple trips across the the bay to the waterfall saw the boat water tanks refilled. Subsequently the yacht and people smell almost pleasant.
Ross and Shelene togged up in all the gears(this takes some time) and headed off for a short fish in the kayaks. This was unsuccessful however two inquisitive dolphins were spotted. The fishing continued
back on board and two very large cod(the biggest that the skipper has ever seen caught on the Spirit of Sydney)were caught directly from the boat.
A superb dinner of green chicken curry and a red pumpkin vege curry were quickly whipped up by the galley hands. This was washed down with copious quantities of Malbec. Chocolate mousse and pear completed the
evening and a relatively early evening was had by all.
Glacial Kayaking
No chain clanking in the night and a sound nights sleep saw us up and ready to eat the apple and cinnamon porridge followed quickly by up anchor and away to Seno Pia. It was a smooth chug up the Beagle and a
delicate entry across the bar into the entrance opened up panoramic vista of cascading glaciers down to sea level. The sun was shining and the wind very gentle so the Spirit of Sydney slowly wove its way up through the glacial bergs up the West Arm. The cameras went crazy and the clunking of the bergs against the hull were a gentle reminder of our trip to Antarctica. We readied ourselves for a kayak back down the West Arm. Zillions of photos were taken and the air was filled with the calving and crashing sounds of the glacier descending into the sea.
With all the kayaks launched we played amongst the bergy bits. WOW. With the glacier in the background and the brightly coloured kayakers it was indeed a beautiful and memorable sight - this is why we came here!!
The Spirit headed off and the kayakers set off in two parties to head back down the West Arm. The wind was non existent and it was a gentle paddle amongst the strangely shaped bergs. We lunched on the shore and continued to the branch where the wind had picked up and the sea was a lot choppier. Safely across the channel and the lee of the far shore afforded another gentle paddle up towards yet another glacier cascading
directly into the sea. A large tourist cruise liner was enjoying the glacial views. Duh - I thought we were in the wilderness.
At any rate the forward party headed back to the Spirit for a well earned rest. Joy, Brett and Shelene decided that this was an inadequate amount of exercise and headed across to the glacier for a closer view and a
challenging paddle back to the boat in a head wind.
Becs dived in for a quick swim and surfaced with a gasp and rapidly ejected herself from the tropical waters. Tayla had managed to capture the moment on digital thank goodness as Becs wasn't keen for a repeat.
Frances caught the third substantial fish of the trip and Darrel says that it was the third biggest ever caught aboard this vessel. The barbeque on the back rail is working overtime to cook the superb Argentine lamb (the best in the world we are told). James and Brian believe that three Michelan stars may be in the offing. The red wine has been counted and we believe that we are most probably on target for the correct consumption. The Captain however is rationing the beer as Craig so poorly distributed it on the last tripo. Tayla made a scrummy chocolate brownie for the very hungry kayakers. It was voted the very best chocolate brownie so far.
Frances
Bloggy thingy migiggy
On the Spirit of Sydney WE LOVE DORITOS. D-O-R-I-T-O-S!!!!! We also love to Eat espically Craig. He likes to eat ALOT. We enjoy the odd brownie, We love the odd brownie. We like to kayak! and catch lots of fish (congrats to Ross and Frances) Most of us like to sleep, some people sleep alot, even through an anchor chain habubble (mehahaha go ME!) We love all the site seeing, I mean sailing seeing. Hahahahaha and we all love llamas or yamas in spanish but mostly llamas on this vessel we are llamarific llamatastic talking peoples. Go Llama Yamas! Hi people! Try some Doritos, make some brownie and dedicate your fish
tank to the llama yamas!
The Llamas are Happy today.
Tayla.
---------------------
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The day dawned less favourably than anticipated and captain Darrel decided that we would stay at the same anchorage again. Hench we headed off on a land expedition to the near shore. So whilst Tayla slumbered we
zodied across to the rocks and headed up the hill. A waterfall drained the large lake that was probaly only 15 metres above sea level. A quick jaunt up the hill saw us soon with a great view overlooking the beagle
channel. The weather steadily improved to give us magnificent views of the lightly snow dusted peaks and glaciers surrounding us. Back on the boat the captain encouaged us to have a shower in the capacious head. Multiple trips across the the bay to the waterfall saw the boat water tanks refilled. Subsequently the yacht and people smell almost pleasant.
Ross and Shelene togged up in all the gears(this takes some time) and headed off for a short fish in the kayaks. This was unsuccessful however two inquisitive dolphins were spotted. The fishing continued
back on board and two very large cod(the biggest that the skipper has ever seen caught on the Spirit of Sydney)were caught directly from the boat.
A superb dinner of green chicken curry and a red pumpkin vege curry were quickly whipped up by the galley hands. This was washed down with copious quantities of Malbec. Chocolate mousse and pear completed the
evening and a relatively early evening was had by all.
Glacial Kayaking
No chain clanking in the night and a sound nights sleep saw us up and ready to eat the apple and cinnamon porridge followed quickly by up anchor and away to Seno Pia. It was a smooth chug up the Beagle and a
delicate entry across the bar into the entrance opened up panoramic vista of cascading glaciers down to sea level. The sun was shining and the wind very gentle so the Spirit of Sydney slowly wove its way up through the glacial bergs up the West Arm. The cameras went crazy and the clunking of the bergs against the hull were a gentle reminder of our trip to Antarctica. We readied ourselves for a kayak back down the West Arm. Zillions of photos were taken and the air was filled with the calving and crashing sounds of the glacier descending into the sea.
With all the kayaks launched we played amongst the bergy bits. WOW. With the glacier in the background and the brightly coloured kayakers it was indeed a beautiful and memorable sight - this is why we came here!!
The Spirit headed off and the kayakers set off in two parties to head back down the West Arm. The wind was non existent and it was a gentle paddle amongst the strangely shaped bergs. We lunched on the shore and continued to the branch where the wind had picked up and the sea was a lot choppier. Safely across the channel and the lee of the far shore afforded another gentle paddle up towards yet another glacier cascading
directly into the sea. A large tourist cruise liner was enjoying the glacial views. Duh - I thought we were in the wilderness.
At any rate the forward party headed back to the Spirit for a well earned rest. Joy, Brett and Shelene decided that this was an inadequate amount of exercise and headed across to the glacier for a closer view and a
challenging paddle back to the boat in a head wind.
Becs dived in for a quick swim and surfaced with a gasp and rapidly ejected herself from the tropical waters. Tayla had managed to capture the moment on digital thank goodness as Becs wasn't keen for a repeat.
Frances caught the third substantial fish of the trip and Darrel says that it was the third biggest ever caught aboard this vessel. The barbeque on the back rail is working overtime to cook the superb Argentine lamb (the best in the world we are told). James and Brian believe that three Michelan stars may be in the offing. The red wine has been counted and we believe that we are most probably on target for the correct consumption. The Captain however is rationing the beer as Craig so poorly distributed it on the last tripo. Tayla made a scrummy chocolate brownie for the very hungry kayakers. It was voted the very best chocolate brownie so far.
Frances
Bloggy thingy migiggy
I slept and I didn't even wake up when they anchor did its thing at 1am! WOW. mehahaha. When I did wake up everyone had ran off to a glacier and all but left me behind :( jokes I just slept through them wanting me to
come with them. I ate a scrummy pie and read a book. Had my first shower in too long and I'm yet to see the two fish Ross managed to fish up. hahaha get it? bad fish joke......... oh well dinners coming and itll be
the first rice dish weve had this whole trip. When Ross asks what I've learned today my stomach will clench in disgust. *giggle boat joke.
I am the Rabbit whisperer.
Tayla.
come with them. I ate a scrummy pie and read a book. Had my first shower in too long and I'm yet to see the two fish Ross managed to fish up. hahaha get it? bad fish joke......... oh well dinners coming and itll be
the first rice dish weve had this whole trip. When Ross asks what I've learned today my stomach will clench in disgust. *giggle boat joke.
I am the Rabbit whisperer.
Tayla.
Bloggy thingy migiggy
On the Spirit of Sydney WE LOVE DORITOS. D-O-R-I-T-O-S!!!!! We also love to Eat espically Craig. He likes to eat ALOT. We enjoy the odd brownie, We love the odd brownie. We like to kayak! and catch lots of fish (congrats to Ross and Frances) Most of us like to sleep, some people sleep alot, even through an anchor chain habubble (mehahaha go ME!) We love all the site seeing, I mean sailing seeing. Hahahahaha and we all love llamas or yamas in spanish but mostly llamas on this vessel we are llamarific llamatastic talking peoples. Go Llama Yamas! Hi people! Try some Doritos, make some brownie and dedicate your fish
tank to the llama yamas!
The Llamas are Happy today.
Tayla.
---------------------
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Sunday, March 28, 2010
Flight of the Condors
It dawned a clear and sunny day and we were quickly up and ready to roll to make the most of this glorious morning we motored up the canal beagle and we moored in Caleta Olla. Our expedition today was to conquer our first glacier walk. We trudged through some wonderful sphagnum moss of all colours, bonsai beech trees, and did a bit of bush bashing, mud skiing, followed with continuous roars of laughter. We progressively removed our clothing layer by layer until we were down to our t-shirts..!! (and this is Patagonia)
The glacier was a magnificent sight flowing in to a terminal glacier lake, with astonishing burgy bits of all sizes. It was suggested that someone pose like the pania of the reef. Priceless photos were taken and tongues were put to the taste test. (no tongues were harmed in this experiment). While having a short refreshment break to fuel our selves for the journey home, Frances discovered she had filled her water bottle from the salt water tap on Spirit !! duhh !!
We were wow'd by two magnificent condors (Very large Birds) as they swooped over head and glided their way back to their nest. A truly South American treat.
Shelene
Chilean Black Dolpins
The highlight of the day was when a pod of about 10 Chilean Black dolpins welcomed us to Caleta Morning Bay. Initially they were busy feeding but they were soon checking us out, swimming under the yatch and escorting the zodie as the mooring lines were being put out . We feel quit priveledged as they are apparently quite rare and seldom seen. Their dorsal fins are quite small and round and their swimming motion is
similar to a sealion.
During the night there were some significant gusts of wind but the morning dawned calm but misty. El Capitain Dario Diaz suggested that we checkout the waterfall and so the famous five set out on the intrepid mud wallow. Various members lost items into the mud whilst others just got muddy. Hand over hand we clambered up the precipitous route (ie mud slide) and were rewarded with views of a glacier at the head of the valley.
We cast off our mooring lines and headed out into the mighty Brazo Noroeste (Northern Canal Beagle). As we motored along stupendous galciers lunged down to the sea with small bergs clustered at the base.
The Chilean Black dolphins saw a flurry of kayaking activity but alas by the time we were decked out in our dry suits and on the water the dolphins had departed but a pleasant paddle was enjoyed around the sheltered Caleta Morning.
Hot chocolate, Pisco sours, Piscolas and the warm cabin are ensuring a pleasant evening around the saloon bar whilst Tayla and Becs are busy creating a veritable lasange masterpiece for dinner. The culinary skills
are being tested and the challenge is to produce a dinner better than the previous nights. Home baked bread and chocolate brownie are delights yet to be sampled tonight.
Frances
---------------------
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The glacier was a magnificent sight flowing in to a terminal glacier lake, with astonishing burgy bits of all sizes. It was suggested that someone pose like the pania of the reef. Priceless photos were taken and tongues were put to the taste test. (no tongues were harmed in this experiment). While having a short refreshment break to fuel our selves for the journey home, Frances discovered she had filled her water bottle from the salt water tap on Spirit !! duhh !!
We were wow'd by two magnificent condors (Very large Birds) as they swooped over head and glided their way back to their nest. A truly South American treat.
Shelene
Chilean Black Dolpins
The highlight of the day was when a pod of about 10 Chilean Black dolpins welcomed us to Caleta Morning Bay. Initially they were busy feeding but they were soon checking us out, swimming under the yatch and escorting the zodie as the mooring lines were being put out . We feel quit priveledged as they are apparently quite rare and seldom seen. Their dorsal fins are quite small and round and their swimming motion is
similar to a sealion.
During the night there were some significant gusts of wind but the morning dawned calm but misty. El Capitain Dario Diaz suggested that we checkout the waterfall and so the famous five set out on the intrepid mud wallow. Various members lost items into the mud whilst others just got muddy. Hand over hand we clambered up the precipitous route (ie mud slide) and were rewarded with views of a glacier at the head of the valley.
We cast off our mooring lines and headed out into the mighty Brazo Noroeste (Northern Canal Beagle). As we motored along stupendous galciers lunged down to the sea with small bergs clustered at the base.
The Chilean Black dolphins saw a flurry of kayaking activity but alas by the time we were decked out in our dry suits and on the water the dolphins had departed but a pleasant paddle was enjoyed around the sheltered Caleta Morning.
Hot chocolate, Pisco sours, Piscolas and the warm cabin are ensuring a pleasant evening around the saloon bar whilst Tayla and Becs are busy creating a veritable lasange masterpiece for dinner. The culinary skills
are being tested and the challenge is to produce a dinner better than the previous nights. Home baked bread and chocolate brownie are delights yet to be sampled tonight.
Frances
---------------------
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Saturday, March 27, 2010
Bloggything
Bloggy thingy migiggy!!!
This morning I woke up at the crack of 2pm, Yay! Straight away I pranced
in my just awoken manner onto a zodiac and once hitting land started
trugding up a big olde hill. Don't you just love doing exercise in the
first hour of waking? Lovely. As people got closer to the AMAZING
glacier I felt sick so I just sat down and me and my mummy ditched the
herd and started attempting to take nice photos of ourselves which was
way harder then it should of been. On the way back I stood in a yummy
mud/water hole sinking my beautiful Dorothy Red boots into the mud. At
the knee high depth it took a while to re ground my now same coloured
boot with a deliouse interior of muck. After a clean up my mummy decided
to go loopy on me and re-submerge as many deserted seaweeds as possible.
After she completed this task she moved on to cracking shells and making
sand. Good on her. After getting into my rainbow suit and seeing a few
seals I reakon tonight will have to be another early night which
basically means bed at 11oclock give or take a minute.
Bahahaha sometimes I hate being the only sobber sailer, btw I like
llamas!!
Tayla.
This morning I woke up at the crack of 2pm, Yay! Straight away I pranced
in my just awoken manner onto a zodiac and once hitting land started
trugding up a big olde hill. Don't you just love doing exercise in the
first hour of waking? Lovely. As people got closer to the AMAZING
glacier I felt sick so I just sat down and me and my mummy ditched the
herd and started attempting to take nice photos of ourselves which was
way harder then it should of been. On the way back I stood in a yummy
mud/water hole sinking my beautiful Dorothy Red boots into the mud. At
the knee high depth it took a while to re ground my now same coloured
boot with a deliouse interior of muck. After a clean up my mummy decided
to go loopy on me and re-submerge as many deserted seaweeds as possible.
After she completed this task she moved on to cracking shells and making
sand. Good on her. After getting into my rainbow suit and seeing a few
seals I reakon tonight will have to be another early night which
basically means bed at 11oclock give or take a minute.
Bahahaha sometimes I hate being the only sobber sailer, btw I like
llamas!!
Tayla.
For Yesterday: Shoppings cheap in Ushia, no tax all duty free. We had a
great time at this restarunt, it was a lovely meal and everyone enjoyed
it, it only costs 70 pacos. Trying to explain where the yacht was to the
taxi drivers of abit of a mission with them thinking that we where just
babbling tourist wanting to go to the airport. We've sailed to Naverino
to get our visas. I had Coffee. The we sailed east up the beagle (woof
woof from tayla) channel.
Brian
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Thursday, March 25, 2010
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Wednesday, March 24, 2010
Tango and travel
Ushuaia, Patagonia
Last night's Tango show was spectacular and Spirit is all set and ready for departure.
Air NZ managed to loose a bag on the flight to Auckland. It was found in time (on the next flight) but meant that we were at the back of a long slow queue for Aerolineas. So lot's of time standing and not even time for a beer before being bundled aboard for an 11 hour flight that is always a challenge to sleep on.
A short walking tour of the Recoletta area was enjoyed by all. Some were focussed on shoe and leather shops, others more attracted to antique tools, bars and pastry shops.
This trips Tango was at the Madero Tango. Stunning views across the marina and a superb floor show, but desultory service, tired seafood and inedibly tough steak. The Senior Tango is apparently the place to go.
Back to the Impala Hotel about 12:30am. While it felt like home,we were up at 6am for the flight to El fin del Munde (The end of the world) as this place is known.
It's 7 degrees C and raining - a contrast to the heat of BA. The yacht is looking well prepared for our trip (possibly because Darrel was expecting us yesterday). The current plan is to clear Customs and Imigration tonight, have a big Assado dinner and then head off at first light.
Hopefully Joy will post some photos later tonight.
Ross
Last night's Tango show was spectacular and Spirit is all set and ready for departure.
Air NZ managed to loose a bag on the flight to Auckland. It was found in time (on the next flight) but meant that we were at the back of a long slow queue for Aerolineas. So lot's of time standing and not even time for a beer before being bundled aboard for an 11 hour flight that is always a challenge to sleep on.
A short walking tour of the Recoletta area was enjoyed by all. Some were focussed on shoe and leather shops, others more attracted to antique tools, bars and pastry shops.
This trips Tango was at the Madero Tango. Stunning views across the marina and a superb floor show, but desultory service, tired seafood and inedibly tough steak. The Senior Tango is apparently the place to go.
Back to the Impala Hotel about 12:30am. While it felt like home,we were up at 6am for the flight to El fin del Munde (The end of the world) as this place is known.
It's 7 degrees C and raining - a contrast to the heat of BA. The yacht is looking well prepared for our trip (possibly because Darrel was expecting us yesterday). The current plan is to clear Customs and Imigration tonight, have a big Assado dinner and then head off at first light.
Hopefully Joy will post some photos later tonight.
Ross
Sunday, March 21, 2010
Where are we going?
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El Fin del Mundo, the End of the World. Ushuaia is the southern-most city in the world, situated on Isla Grande - an island below the South American mainland. Yes it will be cool!
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